Temples of Angkor: Romantic Ta Prohm

Ta Phrom is different from Angkor Wat and Bayon Temple of Angkor Thom for one basic reason. Upon the discovery of the temples of Angkor in the 19th century, Ta Phrom was chosen to be left in it's "natural state", as an example of how most of Angkor looked when discovered by Europeans.

 

 

 

Work on Ta Phrom involved a significant amount of effort and ingenuity to prevent further collapse as well as just enough clearing to allow access. What an inspiration! Ta Phrom is truly beautiful, a romantic image, weathering the effects of time, compromising with decrepitude, balancing decay with majesty!

 

 

 

Ta Phrom today is one of the most visited temples in Angkor and for good reason. One rarely sees trees and plants mesh with ruins like this:

 

 

 

Ta Phrom was a temple monastery, occupying 1 hectare of the total 60 hectares that comprise Ta Phrom. It is hard to imagine the size of the complex based on it's ruins today.

The walls are replete with bas relief etchings.

The enclosures are littered with fallen masonry.

And amongst the ruins and the roots of trees that cling to them, the divatas stand witness.

Ta Phrom does have an atmosphere, you feel it as you walk around the ruins. It is no wonder then why this became the setting for Angelina Jolie's movie. It is rather sad though that even the little boys we encountered around the ruins now call it "Tomb Raider's Temple".

Musings: Boston

I love Boston! For so many reasons, it's history, it's culture, it's agelessness, it's people, it's vibrant night life, let's not forget it's fantastic pubs,  and oh yes...also because my daughter lives there!

 

Beautiful Boston Commons

 

So waking up to news of the bombings in the Boston Marathon was a terrible thing! My first concern, like any parent, was for my daughter, whom I called immediately. She assured us she was safe, and contrary to other years when she would go and watch the Marathon, this day, she decided to stay home. Thank God for that!

 

After that call, I was glued to the television, watching CNN and Al Jazeera the whole day, getting flashbacks of a similar day 12 years ago, 9/11/2001. On that 9/11, I was in Boston, helping my daughter settle in, for her first year in college. I remember waking up in my rented apartment along Commonwealth Avenue, hearing Katie Couric's voice over television, and walking into the living room and seeing a plane hit a tower, speculation that it could have been an accident immediately ending when the second plane hit the other tower. Remembered again that surreal feeling, a questioning of had I seen what I had actually seen?

I ended up staying in Boston until December of that year. Those horrific events in New York conspired to keep the umbilical cord securely in place for a few more months. My constant dream at that time was of her stuck on this boat, myself on the shore with no means to get to her.

I got to know Boston very well, those first six months and the twice a year visits after that. The Commons became a favorite place to sit, read, watch people, feed the ducks, whatever. Newbury Street was a favorite too for its shops and restaurants. I was a regular visitor of the public library on Boylston Street. We had dinner at the Lennox Hotel on Boylston for my daughter's graduation. Frequented Prudential building on Boylston for the shops and Legal Seafood for lunch

The Commons with downtown buildings in the distance

Through the years as my daughter moved from one apartment to another, we got to know other parts of Boston as well. Rode the T often, the red line to Davis Square and Harvard Square, the Green line to Cambridgeside Mall to Boylston and Arlington. And just this year walking down Mass Ave in Cambridge, eating in pubs and drinking wonderful beer! But nothing will beat the summer garden barbecues we have been invited to, and being in New England, featured grilled lobster!

We have met wonderful people in Boston! And now that my daughter will be leaving Boston to work in another part of the world, they will be what I will miss most.

It is with a heavy heart that I realize Boston may not be the same after this incident. But I also know, from what I have experienced of her, Boston will bounce back, stronger, better, and unbowed.

 

Memories: Kumgangsan, North Korea

My husband and I lived in South Korea for over 10 years. In all the years we were there, we became aware of, or rather, were made aware of the existence of North Korea yearly in April when the birthday of it's founder Kim Il Sung drew near. This by the incendiary statements and threats of impending disaster leveled at the South. When there is a change in the presidency of South Korea, whose president is elected for a single six year term, North Korea would predictably ratchet up the rhetoric and when the US and South Korea staged joint military exercises, the rhetoric would reach a rather more stringent pitch. I remember the anxious phone calls from parents, siblings and friends whenever these episodes occurred. Time and again I would need to reassure them that we were all good and that plans for evacuation were in place, when it was actually called for. This was true since we were enrolled with SOS, the international group, with relocation and evacuation being one of their services. Of course there was a meeting point, getting yourselves to that meeting point, well, that was another story entirely.

 

So even if  I do admit concern about the current North Korean threats, especially because it has a new, young untested, leader Kim Jong Un, I do believe, from past experience, that these threats are nothing more than just that... or so I hope. When we lived there, these constant threats were largely ignored. The Koreans in the South seemed utterly oblivious or rather unbelieving that these threats would be carried out. Life went on, people went to work, came home, ate out, watched movies, went dancing.

 

When we arrived in South Korea in 2001, Kim Dae-jung was president and he began the Sunshine Policy of engagement with North Korea. After years of living and working in third world countries, we were awed by the progress, the "can do" attitude and the "richness" of South Korea. We were there for the hype and preparation leading up to the Fifa World Cup, which South Korea co-hosted with Japan. We were there too during the heady, exciting days of the tournament where every cafe would be airing one of the matches. We even watched the final game in a Brazilian chiaroscuro restaurant in downtown Seoul.

 

It was during the presidency of Kim Dae-jung when the "reunification" of families was first held, where family members separated since the ceasefire (over 50 years ago) of the Korean War would be brought together in a hotel in Seoul for a few days. I was to learn that there was no contact for all those years between these family members, no mail, no phone, nothing. I remember seeing heart wrenching scenes of these reunions aired on television. Three days of catching up, three days of getting reacquainted, three days of preparing for the inevitable farewell. And then the departure, photos of weeping sons all grown, bowing to aging parents, sisters, grown old separately, clinging to each other. Raw emotion was there for all to see, the observed oblivious to anything except their own pain.

 

Soon after the World Cup was staged, Roh Moo-hyun was elected president of South Korea and he continued the Sunshine Policy of engagement with North Korea began by his predecessor. It was at this time that we had the opportunity to visit Mt. Kumgang, Diamond Mountain or as the Koreans call it Kumgansan, a mountain resort ran by South Koreans in North Korea.

a part of Kumgansan

We joined a tour organised for a group of young english teachers in South Korea. Needless to say my husband and I were the oldest in the group. Because these tours were just starting, we had an opportunity to "test run" an about to be opened 5 star facility on the resort.

Kumgansan is about 50 kilometers from Sockcho in the east coast of South Korea. A 2 1/2 day tour because of distance and certain timing contraints on the entry to North Korea, we left Seoul at night and had breakfast just near the South Korean border. After breakfast we were herded back into the bus to be on time for the opening of the border. On the border there were numerous buses waiting to cross over. As our bus left the border, we were waived on by several strapping, tall South Korean soldiers.

Crossing the DMZ, a strip of land running across the Korean peninsula that serves as a buffer between the 2 Koreas, we get instructions from our guide as to what to expect and how we were to act when in North Korea. We were not to befriend or even talk to the workers in the resort. A specific instruction was "take pictures only in the resort and the mountains and no picture taking while on the bus."

On the North Korean side of the border, we were waved in by North Korean soldiers, who looked decidedly puny compared to the South Korean soldiers we had just seen. My husband whispers "if soldiers look malnourished...what about the ordinary man in the street?"

We were all asked to come down and proceed to a "processing center", where we were asked to surrender our celfones, and our passports for "safe keeping". In exchange we were issued a big tag with our picture and a number which we had to hang around our necks at all times. We were told that we would get our phones and passports back when we left. We were of course allowed to keep our wallets stuffed with US dollars, (dollars and euros the only acceptable currency in Kumgansan) sans credit cards (sensibly left at home). All other belongings were x-rayed and we were patted down rather thoroughly. Did I feel uncomfortable? You bet I did and I remembered also my son and daughter's exasperation at parental stubborness in insisting on going through this trip.

A few miles away from the border, conversation once again resumed amongst our bus mates, some giggles were heard, the bantering began, the resiliency of youth once again came to the fore.

We were brought directly to Kungansan, where we left the bus and the walking tour began. We could follow 2 trails up the mountain, but were told to be back in the bus at a certain time. There is nothing like the beauty of this mountain, free as it is from loggers, poachers and even the creeping influence of controlled tourism.

In the beginning we tried to keep up with our younger companions but eventually we stopped doing that. We no longer felt the need to "get to the top", we just strolled along enjoying the journey there, if we made it well and good, if not that was okay too!

We never did get to the top, reaching the final, the steepest climb when our clocks told us to start heading back if we were to make it back to the bus on time.

on the way back

The bus then brought us to our hotel to check in, a process that took a really long time as the hotel staff was still in training. It was worth the wait though, the rooms were very comfortable and well appointed.

That evening, we all went to an acrobatic display featuring North Korean artists. It was all rather entertaining, propaganda for sure, but nevertheless entertaining.

view from my hotel room with construction site for other hotels

The next day we checked out of our hotel rooms early after breakfast and were brought by bus to Kumgang Sea.

Another marvelous site, which we were allowed to explore. Many of us did, attempting to get as close as possible seemingly eager to commune as directly as possible!

I was so inspired by this that I attempted to paint it from a photo I took.

We were then brought to Samil Lagoon, so called because as legend tells it, a king who came to visit for a day was so enthralled by it's beauty that he stayed for 3 (samil) days.

We walked around this lake, the only sounds were the ones we ourselves were making. It was truly beautiful!

And then it was back to the bus to start the long trip back home. But before then we had to cross the border. What is it they say about young people thinking that rules don't apply to them or is it that they just think they are invincible? Anyway, contrary to very specific instructions, one of our bus mates had been taking pictures on the bus so after we had taken back our papers and were just going to cross, we were stopped, while all the other buses were  allowed to cross.

Our tour guide announced that it looked like we would be inspected. He told us to look straight ahead, and never look at the soldiers directly. My husband holds my hand and we do as instructed. Two soldiers boarded our bus. We were in the first row so we just kept our heads down and in a little while we heard a commotion and saw one of our young bus mates being hustled out of the bus with his camera. Anxious moments went by, when he finally boarded the bus again, minus his camera.

After this, it seemed a bit different on that bus, some loss of innocence or a sobering dose of reality, maybe? Whatever it was, the way home was quiet, or maybe we were all just a bit tired!

Reflecting on North Korean happenings these past few weeks, I remember responding to a South Korean friend's statements about North Korean "paranoia". I think, I remember saying, not so much paranoia as a monster case of inferiority. Their in-your-face actions and statements merely an attempt to be seen and recognized.  Kumgangsan, in her serene, quiet  beauty, on the other hand, can never be forgotten by those who have had the priveledge of seeing her.

Unfortunately tours to Mt. Kumgang were suspended after a South Korean tourist was shot and killed by a North Korean soldier sometime in 2009. I do not know if these tours to Mt. Kumgang have resumed.
 

Temples of Angkor: Bayon Temple of Angkor Thom

We got a three day pass to the temples of Angkor. We thought it would be enough, but it really wasn't. I promised myself I would return in the not too distant future. In the meantime, we tried to make the most of our time there by choosing only three sites to visit. This day it would be Angkor Thom.

Angkor Wat is the City that is a temple, Angkor Thom on the other hand is the Great City, the last capital city of the Angkorian empire. Angkor Thom is a walled and moated city, with it's state temple Bayon, right in the center. There are five entrances to the city and each entrance is crowned by 5 giant faces with their own enigmatic expressions. In accordance with the Khmer belief that the Angkors are a microcosmic representation of the universe, the moat surrounding Angkor Thom are the oceans, the city itself are the mountains and the Bayon temple is Mount Meru.

We entered Angkor Thom through the South Gate, crowned with a giant stone face, giving us a hint of what was to come.  While the main entrance, the south gate, to Angkor Wat is guarded by nagas on both sides, this most popular entry point to Angkor Thom is flanked by a row of stone devas, benevolent supernatural beings on the left and a row of stone asuras, forces of chaos on the right. Each row holding a naga as if playing tug of war, this apparently a representation of a Hindu myth, the Churning of the Ocean of Milk.



The South Gate



 

Asuras pulling Naga

Because of the limited time we had, and because I really wanted to see the stone faces of Bayon, I proceeded straight to the temple. From afar those enigmatic faces are not visible, one sees only a jumble of stone.

But as one draws a little closer, this jumble of stone begins to resolve themselves.

note the face under the tree branch

Bayon was the last state temple to be built at Angkor and the only Angkorian temple to be built primarily as a Mahayana Buddhist shrine dedicated to Buddha.

Some say that the faces of Bayon are a representation of the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, the embodiment of Buddha's compassion, others say that the faces are representations of Jayavarman VII, it's builder. Once you enter the temple, you are surrounded by these faces, above you, in front of you, beside you and just round the corner.

Serenity, Silence, Stillness, Tranquility, most of all PEACE. That was what I saw in those stone faces.

Later on I was to learn that the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, who here in Bayon is represented as the earthly manifestation of Amitbha Buddha or the Lord Who Hears the Cries of the World, takes a female form in China as the  Guanyin or the Goddess of Mercy. Discovering this was an ah! ha! moment for me, because I knew I recognized those faces. I have been enthralled by the Guanyin from the first time I saw a statue with that  peaceful, enigmatic face. 



wood and plaster Guanyin

I have a wood and plaster Guanyin statue, bought many, many years ago when we were living in Singapore and I also try to see the giant Guanyin in the Kek Lok Si temple in Penang, when we visit the Island.

After reluctantly leaving the faces, I meant to go see the carvings and bas reliefs but it was a little too hot, so I decided to just take a walk around the temple surrounded as it was with trees. And among the trees, an altar to a giant Buddha.

We left Bayon via the Victory Gate, also crowned with a giant stone face, with the devas and asuras on each side engaged in their never ending task.

Leaving Angkor Thom, I knew I would make every effort to return since there was a lot more of it to be seen. But when I do return, I know that I will also have to see the faces again.